Flagstaff Might Be One of My Favorite Places in Arizona, maybe one of my favorite places period.

I've been to Flagstaff twice now, and somehow, I managed to get two completely different versions of the place.

The first time I went, it was beautiful. Blue skies, mountains, pine forests, hiking, good food, and that almost weird feeling of having to remind yourself that you're still in Arizona. If your mental image of Arizona is nothing but Phoenix, cactus, and 110-degree parking lots, Flagstaff does a pretty good job of destroying that image.

The second time I went, I could barely see the sky.

The Pocket Fire was burning near Sedona, and the winds pushed a crazy amount of smoke toward Flagstaff. The fire ultimately burned more than 27,000 acres, and smoke impacts reached Flagstaff and other communities across northern Arizona. While I was there, the smoke was thick enough that some restaurants closed and others pulled their outdoor seating.

It was a completely different Flagstaff.

Yet, it made me adore the place even more. The community coming together, doing what needed to be done. The local towns also seem to really appreciate their firefighters in a way that is unlike most places. That said...

Wildfires Can Change an Arizona Trip Fast

The Pocket Fire experience is probably the biggest travel lesson I've taken away from my second trip. If you're heading into northern Arizona during wildfire season, check the fires before you go.

I don't just mean checking whether your hotel is literally near a fire. The Pocket Fire was north of Sedona, but smoke doesn't particularly care about your itinerary. Wind can push it into communities well away from the actual flames, and suddenly the mountain views you traveled for disappear behind a wall of smoke. Roads, trails and recreation areas can also be affected. The Pocket Fire itself caused closures around the region and impacted businesses in both the Sedona and Flagstaff areas.

That doesn't mean I'd avoid Arizona because there's a wildfire somewhere in the state. Arizona is huge. It just means wildfire conditions deserve a spot alongside weather when you're planning a trip here, especially if the entire point of your trip is hiking and being outdoors.

Flagstaff Is a Hiker's Paradise

One of my favorite things about Flagstaff is just how much outdoors stuff surrounds it. You've got the Coconino National Forest around Flagstaff and the Kaibab National Forest nearby, and I've spent time in both. They're amazing. In fact, I have fought fire in both. They can be challenging to navigate and rewarding too. 

Then there's Arizona Snowbowl.

I've done a couple of hikes around Snowbowl, eaten up there, and taken the Arizona Gondola up the mountain. The gondola takes you to about 11,500 feet, and on a clear day you can see an absurd amount of northern Arizona from up there, including Sedona and even the Grand Canyon in the distance. The Forestry guy at the top pointed it out to me. 

Humphreys Peak itself tops out at 12,633 feet, and Snowbowl has everything from serious hiking to trails you can knock out without dedicating your entire day to them. Aspen Nature Loop is one I'd absolutely recommend if you want something easier. It's a relatively short trail that takes you through ponderosa and aspen groves, and the aspens are really what make that one worth doing.

I also enjoyed Spur Catwalk for a decent trail when you're looking to actually get out and walk without turning the day into an expedition. That's one of the things I like about the Flagstaff area in general. You don't have to be trying to summit a mountain every time you put hiking boots on. There are plenty of places where you can just get into the forest and enjoy being outside.

And if you do want something considerably bigger, Humphreys Peak is sitting right there staring at you.

Flagstaff Feels Like a Town Built for People Who Go Outside

This might be one of my favorite parts about Flagstaff itself.

You can spend the morning hiking and then come back into town and wander through outdoor stores. And there are a lot of outdoor stores.

Babbitt's Backcountry Outfitters is one I really like. As well as Mountain Sports and Aspen Sports are worth wandering into if gear is your thing. I also liked Peace Outfitters, although the last time I was there they were talking about going out of business, which would suck, but they were offering really good going-out-of-business sales on premium gear. 

The vibe Flagstaff has is incredible. Hiking, skiing, camping and climbing don't feel like attractions that have been added for tourists. They're just part of the place. I was there both times in the summer and didn't observe the skiing scene; however, you can certainly tell the potential is there.

Then you head downtown, and Flagstaff goes to another level.

Then There's the Food

Downtown Flagstaff is just fun to wander around. There are restaurants, breweries, bars, little shops and plenty of places where you can finish a day outside by eating entirely too much food.

I've accumulated a few favorites over two trips.

NiMarco's Pizza is a good casual pizza stop. Lumberyard Brewing Co is exactly the kind of place I want after spending a day hiking: beer, burgers, pub food and a relaxed downtown atmosphere. Saying I enjoyed The Oakmont is an understatement, although it's away from downtown and has a completely different atmosphere overlooking the golf course. This was a higher-class place and a little more expensive, but worth every penny.

For Mexican food, Las Gorditas Mexican Food is worth getting away from the tourist-heavy parts of town for. Cornish Pasty Co. is another one I enjoyed and a little different from the usual stuff you're going to run into. They sale basically meat pies but each with a different theme. Me and the other firefighters traded bites back and forth on many different creations, as any tight crew would do. All amazing. 

Then there's Fat Olives.

That one was a letdown for me. I am talkin' Ass service, and I will leave it at that. 

Maybe I caught them on a bad day. Plenty of people obviously like the place, but based on my visit, it wouldn't be high on my list for the next trip. I gave this place 2 shots and as many places as there are to eat around Flagstaff, I don't feel particularly compelled to give a disappointment a 3rd shot.

And Then There's the Grand Canyon

The funny thing about Flagstaff is that I've gotten this far without really talking about the enormous hole in the ground sitting just northwest of it.

Grand Canyon National Park is close enough that Flagstaff makes a great base for visiting the South Rim. But what I like about Flagstaff is that the Grand Canyon doesn't have to be the entire reason for going there.

You could absolutely stay in Flagstaff, spend a day at the Grand Canyon, and then have several more days of stuff to do without struggling to fill the time. Go hiking. Explore Coconino or Kaibab. Spend a day around Snowbowl. Ride the gondola. Wander downtown. Eat. Drink a beer. Walk into an outdoor store intending to look around for five minutes and somehow emerge 45 minutes later considering buying another backpack you absolutely don't need.

That's my kind of trip.

I'd Go Back a Third Time

Flagstaff is one of those places where I don't feel like I've finished with it after two visits.

My first trip was gorgeous. My second trip happened to line up with a major wildfire that covered the area in smoke and completely changed the experience. That's northern Arizona, though. When so much of the reason to visit is the outdoors, conditions are going to matter.

I'd still go back.

Actually, I'll probably go back specifically because there's still so much outside I haven't done.

For somebody who likes hiking, forests, mountains, outdoor gear, good food, breweries, and being able to use a city as a base for bigger adventures, Flagstaff checks an awful lot of boxes.

And even with a smoke filled sky, the view isn't too bad either.